Busting the Myth: Fall Fashion in White and Beyond
October 9, 2024
by Max Donos

Introduction

Gone are the days when white was strictly reserved for summer! This season, we’re embracing the versatility of lighter colours for a stylish and comfortable fall capsule wardrobe. Let’s explore how we created a capsule collection perfect for errands, travel, or the office, featuring a luxurious white cardigan and easy-to-wear separates.

photograph of Burda magazine model wearing white trouser suit

Burda magazine page with model wearing white cardigan and trousers

Burda magazine inspiration

 

Model wearing walks by stand decorated with straw bales and pumpkins wearing white cardigan, greige pants and floral print blouse

Fabric Selection at Fabricville

model picking through bolts of cable knit fabrics

We embarked on a fabric exploration journey at Fabricville. From cozy knits to luxurious suiting fabrics, the options were endless. We narrowed it down to several beautiful choices, including:

stack of fabrics cuts in shades of white

Designing a Versatile Capsule Collection

Our goal was to create a cohesive ensemble that could be worn together or mixed and matched for various occasions. We used vintage Burda magazines for inspiration, selecting patterns for a cardigan coat, fit-and-flare trousers, and a classic blouse with a pleated stand collar.

Burda magazine laying on top of pattern stackBurda printed pattern and instructions for a blouseBurda magazine instructions page for a cardiganBurda magazine instructions for white pants

Construction and Challenges

The fabrics behaved beautifully during pre-washing and drying, retaining their shape and texture. However, a minor adaptation was needed for the cardigan coat. The chosen pattern called for a double-faced knit, which our cream cable knit (MAXINE) wasn’t. This led to a creative solution – tracing a facing and adjusting seam allowances. Another interesting challenge arose while cutting the cable knit – the pattern design ran horizontally, with the maximum stretch. To overcome this, we still cut the patterns with the cable pattern running vertically and used the selvedge for the bottom hem, eliminating the need for further finishing.

Cutting our cardigan pattern pieces our of MAXINE cable knit fabric

Aligning pattern pieces with the selvedge of MAXINE cable knit fabric

Sewing Techniques and Customization

The cardigan coat construction followed the pattern instructions with some modifications. All seams were sewn with a straight stitch on a sewing machine and finished with a clean, hidden method:

  1. Trimming one seam allowance in half
  2. Wrapping it with the other seam allowance
  3. Blind stitching it in place

For added functionality and style, we also incorporated two patch pockets and thread chain belt loops into the design.

Seams of the cable knit cardigan

Internal view of the hand finished cardigan seams

Thread chain belt loops on a knit cardigan

Thread chain belt loops

Model walking on sidewalk wearing white cardigan and pants and a printed blouse

Success and Inspiration

Before we even captured photos for this blog post, the cardigan became a wardrobe staple! It held its shape beautifully and proved to be exceptionally versatile.

 

Model walking down the circular stair wearing white cardigan and pantsModel walking into a building foyer wearing a white cardigan and pants

Next Steps: Trousers and Blouse Creation

The journey continues with the fit-and-flare trousers. This pattern boasted a simple design with no pockets and a fly front zipper, making for a straightforward construction. To enhance the crisp look, we stitched the front crease permanently, considering the fabric’s inability to hold a crease with ironing alone. This detail also ensures wrinkle-free travel wear!

Top and bottom of greige trousers

Model standing next to a table wearing greige pants and printed blouse and holding a white cardigan over her hand

Finally, we tackled the blouse. Despite being made with the fabric from the spring-summer collection, its heavier drape and captivating print made it a perfect fall wardrobe addition. Constructing the pleated stand collar required a custom pleating mould made from sturdy cardboard. We opted for French seams for a luxurious finish, adding a touch of elegance, but doubling the construction time. The result? A stunning blouse that effortlessly transitions through seasons and offers both simplicity and style.

stitching a narrow seam on a strip of printed fabric

Preparing pleated stand collar: stitching 3mm seam

Stitching narrow seam on printed fabric

Preparing pleated stand collar: stitching 3mm seam second time.

narrow seam on printed fabric

3mm hem ready for pleating

laying a strip of fabric onto cardboard pleating mould

Laying the pleated stand collar piece between 2 sheets of pleated cardboard

pressing cardboard pleating mould with the hand

Pressing the pleating mould with lots of steam and heat and waiting for it to cool down.

fabric pleated with the help of cardboard mould

Pleating is complete.

pleated stand collar on a silk printed blouse

Pleated stand collar in a classic blouse.

calf detail on a printed silk blouse

Buttoned calf detail.

french seams on printed silk blouse

French seams inside the classic printed silk blouse.

Conclusion

Embracing lighter colours like white for fall capsule wardrobe has proven to be a success! This versatile capsule collection demonstrates that comfort and style can coexist. Don’t be afraid to experiment with unexpected colour palettes and explore your creativity during the sewing process. With a bit of planning and resourcefulness, you can create beautiful and functional pieces that enhance your fall wardrobe.

Model walking through hotel lobby wearing white cardigan and pantsModel checking blooming mums

 


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