by Claudine Gauvin For my second fall project, I decided to create a two-piece set consisting of a crossover jacket (version A) and wide-leg pants. The Butterick B6965 pattern was the perfect choice to bring this idea to life.
Suede is everywhere this season, and I couldn’t be more thrilled. Whether it’s bags, shoes, or jackets, this timeless and luxurious material continues to stand the test of time. To celebrate its comeback, I decided to make my jacket with Arizona printed suede, a scuba suede made of 92% polyester and 8% spandex. This slightly stretchy blend is ideal for combining comfort and elegance. With its soft texture and impeccable drape, this fabric is perfect for an unlined jacket with invisible side seam pockets and a matching belt.
In terms of colours, I opted for a taupe shade that pairs beautifully with the merlot red I chose for the pants. The pants are made from Jillian stretch suiting fabric, a polyester that offers a subtly sophisticated autumn palette.
The first challenge I faced was selecting the right needle for the fabric’s thickness. The first needles I tried didn’t penetrate the material properly, resulting in skipped stitches. It was a reminder of how crucial it is to choose the right tools for the job to achieve a flawless finish. After several tests, I finally opted for a needle designed for thick fabrics, which made all the difference.
To reinforce certain areas of the jacket without adding bulk, I chose a slightly stretchy interfacing. This was essential to maintain flexibility while providing good support, especially around the collar.
Assembling the pieces went quite smoothly. I’ve sewn side seam pockets many times before, so that part wasn’t particularly challenging. However, the shawl collar required a bit more patience, especially at the neckline. I admit that this part could be tricky for less experienced sewists, as it requires careful attention to the markings and precise assembly.
I also made sure to avoid a common mistake I sometimes make: cutting the fabric too large. I followed the pattern’s instructions closely and chose a more fitted size than usual. Garments that are too loose can quickly lose their elegance, unless you’re going for an oversized look. Here, I wanted a well-structured jacket without too much volume for a more flattering silhouette.
As for the pants, which are fairly straightforward without complicated techniques, my main challenge was installing the invisible zipper. Despite over 30 years of sewing experience, this was a first for me. The pattern’s instructions were very clear, and I also took the time to watch a few YouTube tutorials to ensure I was doing it correctly. The pants are fitted at the hips with a shaped yoke at the waist, and I finished them with a topstitched hem as recommended.
In the end, this two-piece set perfectly captures what I had envisioned for fall: rich, sophisticated hues that blend beautifully, combined with fabrics that are both soft and comfortable. The printed suede adds a touch of understated luxury to the jacket, while the merlot red pants bring character to the ensemble. Thanks to the fitted cut and careful detailing, I was able to achieve a result that is both structured and fluid, enhancing the silhouette without compromising on comfort.
This project not only allowed me to play with autumn textures and colours but also gave me the opportunity to explore new sewing techniques, such as installing the invisible zipper. The result is an elegant and versatile ensemble, perfect for the season, combining timeless style with modern comfort.
