Sewing the Trends: When Fabric and Design Work Together
September 25, 2024
by Patricia Parsons

Depending on where you get your seasonal style update, you’ve probably noticed a few themes emerging for this fall and winter. One of those is animal prints—as if they ever went away! It seems to me that every year, there’s some variation of the animal print that designers just can’t seem to get enough of. And if you’re like me and you’re more interested in being classically stylish than trendy, knowing what part of a trending style to embrace gives your wardrobe just that touch of freshness.

Sewing that trend-worthy item is even better. Enter the piece I’m adding to my wardrobe this fall.

I always love a great top that’s comfortable and fits well, and if it’s on trend, that’s even better. I usually begin with a pattern and move on to the fabric, and that’s where I started.

Simplicity 9451 offers several straightforward and yet not overly simple tops that could just as easily pass as office wear as they could for a night of dining out. I loved View D, which drapes from the shoulder, has a boat neck, and has gathered sleeves. The draping is fun and flattering. The boat neck is flattering to almost everyone, and the gathered sleeves elevate this beyond a basic long-sleeved T-shirt. But this kind of draped design demands a fabric that can do it justice.

I fell in love with the Isabella Printed Knit in a colour called “celery” for a couple of reasons. First, I was looking for a light to mid-weight fabric that would be drapey, with a soft hand without being flaccid. This fabric, with its 95% Viscose and 5% Spandex fibre content, promised to give me exactly what this pattern would need. It’s also not strictly an animal print, which I often find overwhelming. It’s a bit of a paisley twist on the trend, and I loved that feature.

As a side note, viscose is an alternative name for rayon, which comes in a variety of qualities. This one turned out to be even nicer than I thought it would be. You won’t find this quality on the fast fashion racks. Now, onto the sewing.

As I always do, I cut a 4 X 4-inch square of fabric and washed and dried it. There was a small bit of shrinkage, so I washed the entire length in a quick wash and dried it on low in the dryer. It came out beautifully and was ready to sew.

Most of this pattern was designed to be cut out in a single layer, an approach I do recommend with this delicate fabric. I suggest using your silk-sewing techniques: single-layer cutting for stabilization, a fine, micro-tex needle, a 3.0 mm stitch length and a walking foot.

Before I even cut it out, though, I researched reviews of this pattern. Two elements of the design kept coming up as potential problems. The first was the design of the mock turtle neckline, which many sewists suggested was a tad choking. Since I wasn’t making that neckline, I figured that wouldn’t be an issue for me. However, the second issue was that the opening at the back of the neckline with its looped closure tended to gape. Since I was doing the wider neckline, I knew from experience with bateau necklines that there would likely be more than enough space for a head to go through without that opening at the back at all. So, the first thing I did was sew the centre-back seam all the way up. I then simply sewed the facing in a circle (after interfacing it), and it wasn’t a problem.

I did have to massage the boat neckline a bit, however. I under-stitched the facing as directed. That helped, but it still didn’t lie as flat as I needed it to. So, I top-stitched it, and that did the trick.

I also did two elastic cuff samples. The pattern suggests quarter-inch elastic. I found that it was too narrow to lie flat. The three-eighths width worked very well.

In the end, I have a top with a beautiful feel that fits and flatters in an almost-trendy style. I can wear this with jeans and a quilted jacket for a walk among the autumn leaves or with black jeans and fabulous shoes or boots for a night out. Either way, it’s a winner for sure!

I write stories about my sewing adventures and books about women. You can read more of my stories at www.gloriaglamont.com. Happy sewing! PJP


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