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Fall is already at our door, it is time to put away all the fun sun dresses, shorts, short sleeve tops and pull out our warm and cozy wardrobe. Each new season, I like to make myself a new outerwear garment, for me, it is a good way to begin a new season!

This new blog post came on point, I will document for you, my process on making a new autumn coat! Of course, it is going to be a vintage style coat, so let’s inspire ourselves and see what catches my attention!

Inspiration and history

Classic 1950’s silhouette, new look style

My everyday wardrobe contains a lot of full skirt dresses and circle skirts, I rarely wear trousers, therefore I was looking for 1950’s new look silhouette inspiration. I envision a princess coat style. Whit the distinctive silhouette brought to the fashion World by Dior in 1947, a distinctive cinched waist, well fitted bodice and a full skirt that accentuate the curves of the hips.

While I was scrolling pinterest, I was very inspired by one the most iconic coat and suit designer from the 1950’s, Lili Ann. All their design were more gorgeous from one to the other! Here are a few of my favorites!

Pattern and material choice

While browsing Fabricville’s patterns selection, Vogue V2401 caught my eye, I knew right away it would be perfect for the project I have in mind.

Vogue 2401 is a dress, below mid-calf, has a collar, close-fitting bodice with side front seams; side front extending into tie ends; dropped waist back, slightly flared, wrap skirt, inside back belt and below elbow or long sleeves.

As for the fabric, I wanted something fun and unusual, I always love to make vintage style garment with an unexpected fabric. I choose a gorgeous green leopard coating fabric and faux leather for the collar and ties.

Transforming a dress pattern into a coat

In order to be able to make this pattern into a coat, I have to make a few modifications to the pattern pieces. I am always up for a challenge so let us try to modify this pattern to make it into a coat. I wanted to make this pattern for the longest time, it was in my sewing wish list and it is now time to finally make it!

Here are the modifications I need to do:

1. Extend the center front seam of the bodice of 1.5’’ to create a front closure.
2. Slash in half the front skirt panel
3. Create darts and level the new front skirt panels
4. Add a lining

Making the coat

When working with fur or loosely weaved fabric, taking you time when cutting the pattern pieces is crucial. With fur, it is important to cut each piece one layer at a time, by cutting while doing little scissor snips. This way you will avoid making blunt cut onto the pile of the fur.

I am using pattern weights instead of pins when working with faux leather, pins could damage the material and create holes.

Sewing with this material has turned out to be more challenging than I expected. It is very thick and sometimes make my machine jams. It is a chance; I own an industrial machine that can stitch thick leather. Although, I still have to be careful and sew slowly, to avoid the fabric to stretch, since it is loosely woven.

Be ready to have hair EVERYWHERE, when working with this kind of fabric, ahah. It is definitely a pain, but it is going to be worth it at the end!

The Reveal!!!

I am so happy of the outcome, I am already picturing myself wearing this everyday during autumn. Speaking of which, let’s take it out and got for a walk in the woods.

Voilà! I cannot express how happy I am about my new coat; it is exactly and even better than what I pictured in my mind. I feel like I am wearing an authentic vintage piece.

Thanks, Fabricville for giving me the opportunity to blog about my sewing and vintage fashion passion! For more Gorgeously Vintage creation, visit my Facebook & Instagram pages @gorgeouslyvintage

So Long Dearies!

Happy sewing!

Sewing Summary

Pattern:  V2401 – Misses’ Dress (size: 12-14-16)

Fabrics:

4M of Wool Blend Fancy Coating – Leopard – Green

4 M of green satin lining

Notions:

2 hooks and eye

Sewing time:

10 hours, a good average for a vintage style coat, I would say it is a pattern that is easily put together. The most time-consuming step is cutting all the pieces, single layered.

Fit: Surprisingly good for a vintage pattern reproduction. Sometimes, the repro’s sizing is all over the place, even if they have updated the sizing to the modern standards. I had to make no adjustments.

Difficulty: Intermediate, especially because of the way the front ties are attached.

Make again? Yes, I would like to make it again in its original version.